Sunday, June 15, 2008

June 10, 2008 - Day 4 - Another day in Glacier Basin

Day 4 . . . the morning after the storm. The wind has died down, but it's still not too nice out - still snowing a bit. Looks like we got about a foot and a half of snow. No one is up early. I want to get out and I hear Ken is out walking around. I find my boots and get out of the tent. Ken tells me he clocked winds of 72 mph last night! Slowly, the others get up and come out of their tents. We look at the damage from the storm.
This is Robert and Tim standing next to their little two man tent that is ripped. Apparently their stuff got soaked with snow and their stuff is very wet. Read and Dave (the Dallas boys) pose for a picture outside their tent. They are working on re-digging out their hole for their packs and boots. Also, shoveling the snow out away from their tent.
Here I am posing next to my tent --- showing the rip on our tent.
It's around 8am and we're standing around wondering what to do. The guides are still asleep after a rough night. We figure we can't climb higher if we have damaged tents and that we'll have to spend the day fixing them.
Here someone is working on digging out the "cook tent" so that we can get breakfast (i.e. boiling water) going. Jeff and Read in the cook tent having breakfast. The tent consists of benchs cut out of the snow for us to sit on. It's not very comfortable because of the cold, wet snow. Also, the tent leans in on us and with the steam from the boiling water and everyone breathing, it gets warm and the condensation on the tent soaks our backs.
We have breakfast around 9:30am and talk about last night. We talk about the damage to the tents and what's next. Joel tells us he's never experienced anything like it and he's never had tent poles break or tents rip!! They say they have to figure out a way to repair the tents. (We aren't carrying any extra supplies or tools so that we can keep the weight in our packs to a minimum!) We ask "what's next? are we going up the mountain? how can we if are tents are broken? what's the weather forecast?". We don't get many answers. Joel finally tells us that we have to wait and see if the weather clears up to see if we're moving up to Camp Schurman as originally planned in the itinerary.

This is a view looking up the Inter Glacier --- where we're supposed to climb next. We figure we won't be going anywhere until things clear up a bit. (Here are some crazy people hiking and skiing down the mountainside in the beautiful weather.)
Around an hour later, Joel tells us we're staying in Glacier Basin another day. We need to repair the tents and build the snow wall higher around the tents! We get to work, cutting the snow blocks and building a big big wall. We spend hours filling in the gaps and making it sturdy. We know we don't want to chance another night of having the tents ripped.
At 1:30pm we are told it's time for lunch. We stop work on the wall (it's good enough) and have more boiling water for lunch. At lunchtime we're told that the guides will work on repairing the tent rips and broken poles. They find duct tape on ski poles and melt it onto the ripped tents. It works great. They use ice anchors to rebuild the tent poles. They really did any incredible job.

After we're done with lunch, Joel tells us about what he's heard about the weather report and what happened last night on the other side of the mountain. We are told about a group of three climbers that left Camp Muir around 10pm to go back down to Paradise. Part way down the weather got too bad for them to continue and they had to hunker down. One of them dies. We are shocked. (This is Tuesday around noon. We find out later that the other critically injured climber doesn't get off the mountain until Wednesday - due to the bad weather - when a helicopter is able to fly in & pick her up & take her to the hospital.) We are told that our emergency contacts have been notified and that we are all safe. (Everyone comments "oh great, my Mom is going to kill me for doing this!")
Due to the weather and tent situation, we are told we will spend the day doing some training on avalanches (and we're told that they have already assessed where we were camping & felt we were safe from any potential avalanche) and will assess our next day's plans later. We stand around camp (there's never anywhere to sit) and wait for the avalanche training to begin.

We watch as skiers and hikers pass us going up and down the Inter Glacier behind us.
Jeff gives us a demostration on how to check the snowpack to see if there's a potential for an avalanche. Later we practice searching for people buried with their Avalanche transceiver.

We are asked to think about how we feel and what we want to do given that we've lost a day going up the mountain. A summit attempt is highly unlikely and we don't even know if we'll be moving up to Camp Schurman tomorrow. I'm concerned about carrying my big heavy pack up to Camp Schurman!! We have dinner and get in our tents around 9pm. There's nothing else to do, but wait for the morning and hope things have cleared up.