Sunday, June 1, 2008

Mt. Rainier Plans - Itinerary

I'm off to climb Mt. Rainier in early June. Not really sure what I'm in for. I've been training at Hyland Hills (the little ski slopes in town) and carrying around my backpack with up to 40 - 45 lbs --- for up to 2 to 3 hours at a time. I'm dressed in shorts and a t-shirt most of the time. I'm sure I've simulated what the conditions will be during my trip.

This is what I found out about Mt. Rainier . . .
"Mount Rainier, at 14,410 feet, is the most extensively glaciated volcanic peak in the contiguous United States. It is the largest in a chain of volcanoes that extends through the Pacific Coast states from Mount Shasta in California to Mount Baker in Washington. Mt. Rainier is 25 separate named glaciers comprising the largest single peak glacier system in the US outside of Alaska. The Mountain, as it is known to locals, offers limitless mountaineering possibilities to both aspiring and experienced mountaineers. Indeed, the combination of high altitude, various route choices, and Northwest weather make climbing Mount Rainier a truly challenging experience. The guides of Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. can help you meet this challenge. (That's the group I'm going with!) As one the largest mountain guide services in the United States, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. has been providing Mount Rainier National Park visitors with guided summit climbs, expeditions, and instruction since 1969."

This is what it says about climbing Mt. Rainier (I didn't read this before my trip . . . perhaps I should have).

"Mountain climbing on Mount Rainier is very difficult; it involves climbing on the largest glaciers in the U.S. south of Alaska. Most climbers require two to three days to reach the summit. Climbing teams require experience in glacier travel, self-rescue, and wilderness travel. About 8,000 to 13,000 people attempt the climb each year, about 90% via routes from Camp Muir (not going that way) on the southeast flank. Most of the rest ascend Emmons Glacier (that's the way I'm headed!! Of coure I take the path less travelled!!) via Camp Schurman on the northeast. About half of the attempts are successful, with weather and conditioning being the most common reasons for failure. About three mountaineering deaths each year occur due to rock and ice fall, avalanche, falls, and hypothermia associated with severe weather."

My "climbing boots" --- not made for walking!!!Here's my itinerary for the trip . . .
Friday, June 6th drive to Ashford, WA where my trip begins.
Stay at Whittakers Bunkhouse on Friday night. (800-238-5756)
Pick up my rental gear & food for the trip

Ashford, WA is 6 miles from the Southwest Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park.

Saturday June 7th – trip officially begins with RMI (Rainier Mountaineering, Inc)
I will be in taking the Expedition Skills Seminar – 6 day Emmons trip
www.rmiguides.com/rainier/emmons_condition_6day
Day 1: The Mountaineering Day School (8am – 5:30pm)
Day is spent training in the field on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier. We are introduced to many skills, from the basic techniques of efficient mountain travel, various safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, cramponing, roped travel, ice axe arrest practice, anchors and running belays, fixed line travel, and the basics of crevasses rescue!!
Ø (Hike 2-2.5 hours / Gain = 1,000’ Loss = 1,000’ / 4 miles / carry 20 – 25 lbs)

Stay at Whittakers Bunkhouse again on Saturday night.

Sunday June 8th
Day 2: Technical Training Day (8:30am – 6:30pm)
Intensive learning opportunity in a classroom setting. Detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations, a discussion of mountain medicine, mountain weather, expedition logistics, and navigation and route finding. This helps prepare us for our adventure on Mt. Rainier, and increases the likelihood of a safe, successful ascent of the mountain.

Stay at Whittakers Bunkhouse a third time on Sunday night.

Monday June 9th
Day 3: The Emmons Climb begins (7am)
Meet at Rainier BaseCamp
After an initial team meeting at 7am a shuttle takes our group to the trailhead at the White River Campground (4,400 feet). Our climb leaves the White River Campground on a beautiful 3.3 mile hike through mature forests. As we move up towards camp we begin to work on the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. These skills include pressure breathing and the rest step, dressing appropriately for the weather and workload, kicking steps and climbing in balance when on snow, eating and taking efficient rest breaks, and working on a pacing system that allows us to hike and climb all day. We spend our first night on the mountain at Glacier Basin Camp at 6,000 feet. This camp is set at the very edge of the forest.
Ø (Hike 2-3 hours / Gain = 1,600’ / 3.3 miles / carry 50 – 60 lbs)

Tuesday June 10th
Day 4: Leave Glacier Basin Camp (6,000’)
Shortly above Glacier Basin Camp we will be roping up to gain access to the Inter Glacier and then climbing over the flanks of Steamboat Prow onto the heavily crevassed Emmons Glacier. As we make the ascent to tour high camp (Camp Schurman, 9440’) we continue to hone our new mountaineering techniques. Once at Camp Schurman, we have a great arena for the practice of additional skills, and then we will prep for our summit bid. Proper placement of snow and ice anchors, crevasse rescue simulations, and ice climbing can all be accomplished here.
Ø (Hike 3-4 hours / Gain = 3,400’ / 2 miles / carry 50 – 60 lbs)

Wednesday June 11th
Day 5: Attempt on the Summit!!
We head to the summit via the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route. It climbs the northern edge of the largest glacier in the lower 48 states, the Emmons Glacier. The spectacular 35-degree central ramp of the glacier offers a corridor by which we are able to access the crevassed slopes of the upper mountain. We thread our way through these immense crevasses toward Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier.

The summit of Mount Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bard ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410’, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top, we begin the descent to high camp. This takes about half the time of the ascent, and requires definite effort. We return to Camp Schurman for the evening.
Ø (Hike 12+ hours roundtrip / Gain = 5,000’ & Loss = 5,000’ /8 miles / carry 20 – 25 lbs)

Thursday June 12th
Day 6: Final Day – back to Ashford
We descend our route from high camp and returning to the trailhead. Our shuttle will then take the team to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon. Check back in all gear and celebrate with a presentation of certificates.

Hopefully I will meet Dan & Heidi on Thursday afternoon in Ashford and go back to Seattle with them and stay at their house on Thursday night.

Friday June 13th
Back in the Seattle area for “sightseeing” or walking in the rain!! I have the whole day to wander around.

Saturday June 14th
More walking in the rain in Seattle.

Fly back to Mpls late late at night.

Flight home leaves Seattle at 12:40am (very early on Sunday June 15th)
· NWA # 166 / Arrive Mpls on Sunday morning at 5:45am.

Home in Minneapolis by mid-morning --- sleep, eat, recover, and prepare to get back to work!!!